my late grandparents, pat and ray purchased their property in the 1970s. their children, mostly grown by this point, were unimpressed. it is far from any major cities, and they were convinced that it was home to sasquatch. once my grandparents settled in, they decided to join the other farms in the area by growing wild rice. it is a dark grain that is chewy and sturdy. it’s delicious in soups, salads, and stuffing, but it’s terrible when puffed in chocolate and even worse by itself. my grandparents put it in just about everything and we ate it all, mostly just to make them happy. 

my grandparents were old school. they married young, had children young, and lived slowly. so, it makes sense that they were slow to change, and the farm exemplified that. they struggled to see the value in sustainable farming practices, even though the farm rarely broke even. sustainable farming can take a while to become profitable, and some methods certainly have downsides. however, they loved the land, its animals, and plants, and i believe it’s about time the farm evolves to demonstrate that. 

there are several major ways that we can implement sustainable farming practices. they are reducing water use, limiting the use of pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers, and utilizing a sustainability mindset. my family’s farm is just like many thousands of family farms across the country and these recommendations, if applied everywhere, would have an amazing impact on preserving our country’s water resources and biodiversity. 

the weight of water

the farm is far north, near mt. shasta, california. it’s far from any cities or even large towns, and when they purchased the property, there was nothing on it besides grasses and a few trees. it did, however, boast river access. called the little tule river (pronounced too-lee), after the cattail that lines the water. tule is a sturdy plant that the ahjumawi, the indigenous band in the area, used to weave baskets and canoes. 

the river is spring fed, an icy 50 degrees year-round, and home to many native and nonnative species, such as brown bullheads, sacramento suckers, rainbow trout, and the endangered shasta crayfish. the area is also a stopover for canadian and snow geese, as well as american white pelicans and blue-winged teals. it is also home to lewis’s woodpeckers, northern pygmy owls, bald eagles, and a large population of ospreys. the sheer amount of wildlife is astounding, it is one of the many things that makes the area incredible. 

a wild rice farm requires huge quantities of water, as wild rice grows in rice paddies, areas of land that are flooded nearly year-round. this causes several issues, such as evaporation, percolation and seepage, and soil and watershed pollution.  

there isn’t much that can be done to reduce water use in a wild rice farm. however, there are methods of reducing the impact. firstly, implementing water storage for the off seasons and for non-flooded paddies. this will reduce water evaporation and can be used to flood paddies as needed. this will also make water testing easier to check for high nutrient levels, pesticides, fertilizers, and invasive species. doing this will keep animals, the watershed, and the soil healthier while reducing water waste. 

the second method to reduce water waste is to dry out some of the fields and grow non-water-based crops, such as alfalfa or soy. doing this has several benefits: it will help to reduce water use and waste and it will restore the soil’s nutrient levels naturally. this is known as crop rotation, and it is a method of farming that helps to prevent soil depletion and erosion, improves the soil structure, and increases the biodiversity in the area. it has the added benefit of allowing a farmer to choose other crops to grow, providing additional income and reducing the dependency on a single crop. 

getting past pesticides

my family’s farm has one pest, one critter that beats all critters. they’re called tadpole shrimp, but they’re neither tadpoles nor shrimp. they’re a crustacean that lives amongst and feeds on rice seedlings. these crustaceans are incredibly resilient and nearly impossible to eradicate.

pesticides are often used to manage these critters when other control measures fail. however, there is another non-pesticide method of fighting their populations. agricultural entomologist and cooperative extension specialist ian grettenberger of uc davis has proposed alternative management. he and his colleagues found that mosquitofish proved able to suppress tadpole shrimp populations, especially in the early stages of the crustaceans’ development. these little fish are much more environmentally friendly than pesticides, and they provide food for the various species in the area. 

reducing fertilizer use

as most farming operations do, ours uses fertilizers to restore nutrients to the soil. however, nitrates and phosphates can have lethal impacts on the watershed. growing wild rice using fertilizers is especially dangerous for the environment as the water is commonly returned to the local river and takes any dissolved fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides with it. these nutrients and contaminants can lead to algal bloom, which takes over streams and rivers, and chokes fish and invertebrates as it decays. 

further, since the fields are flooded most of the year, the water slowly infiltrates into the ground and into the water table below. this can lead to the contamination of drinking water if people in the area are drinking water from the aquifer and wells. nitrate-contaminated drinking water is extremely dangerous and even deadly, especially to young children.  

the solution to fertilizer pollution is to eliminate its use. there are other ways to naturally restore soil nutrition, as mentioned earlier. crop rotation and field rotation are excellent methods, while having a mono-crop depletes soil nutrition, reduces organic matter in the soil, and can cause significant erosion.  there are many options for additional crops, alfalfa, soy, hops, and honey are some of the common crops in the area. bees are an excellent addition to any farm, and ours already has about ten bee boxes. they provide pollination services, increase biodiversity, are indicators of the health of the area, and produce honey that has antifungal properties and can help soothe a litany of ailments.  

moving forward

i was blessed to spend my childhood on the banks of the tule river, dipping my feet into its crystalline water, the tule blowing in the breeze. this land contains a history of the species that live here, the families before mine, and now my own. advocating for sustainable change on a family farm can sometimes be just as difficult as creating change on the national level. but it is important to try. if implemented, these changes will ensure that my family’s farm lasts for many more years to come, but when it is finally over, its environmental impact won’t be quite so abiding.

our weather can be unpredictable, ranging from decades of drought to month-long storms that dump dozens of inches of rain. earlier this winter, california was recovering from a multi-week storm surge. we had trillions of gallons of rain and hundreds of inches of snow in only a few weeks’ time.

it was clear to anyone living here that we were and are not prepared for this amount of rainfall. here are four key issues that california is continuing to grapple with.

1. runoff pollution

as someone who lives on the coast, a common issue we face is the impact of runoff pollution. this runoff accumulates along the coast after storms, when contaminants from city streets, farms, and other urban areas are washed away and into the rivers, estuaries, and beaches. a common effect of runoff pollution is harmful algal blooms, these blooms are a consequence of increased nitrogen and phosphate in the water. in these conditions, toxic and nontoxic algae grow unchecked. eventually, they die and can suffocate the gills of fish and invertebrates.

helping to address this problem is the california cooperative oceanic fisheries investigations (calcofi), an affiliate of the california department of fish & wildlife, noaa fisheries service, and scripps institution of oceanography. i spoke with erin satterthwaite, who coordinates their program, and makes sure their research is accurately used, and accessible. satterthwaite said that calcofi values being inclusive and its data publicly accessible, using a holistic approach to solve questions we were once unable to answer, she called these “time machine questions.” we are now able to go back in time and answer questions from the past with the technology and information we now have access to. the goal is to be able to answer future questions, today.

satterthwaite and i spoke about how calcofi uses a holistic ecosystem approach, examining how elements of an ecosystem are impacted by changes in the surrounding area. they collect data up to 500 meters below sea level, testing the water for salinity, oxygen, phosphate, silicate, nitrate and nitrite, chlorophyll, phytoplankton biodiversity, zooplankton biomass, and zooplankton biodiversity. this data helps to paint a picture of what is happening to the ecosystem as a whole, and what may be changing within it.

2. flood management

researching for this article proved to be quite a feat, there are so many challenges facing water management in dense urban areas. currently, many of la’s rivers are paved entirely in concrete, an example is the los angeles river. the goal is to quickly move flood waters to long beach, and out of neighborhoods. while effective, this method ensures that no water is collected or recycled and flows directly into long beach.

this water is a mix of stormwater, street runoff, and trash. therefore, without filtration, it pours into the bay polluting the beaches and harbor. according to heal the bay’s beach report card, long beach is la county’s most polluted beach. long beach receives an ‘f’ rating after storms. to put it into perspective, the tijuana river slough receives the same score. this method of flood management is effective; however, it leads to water waste and pollution. 

3. drought preparedness

california is notoriously dry, with decade-long droughts that increase wildfire risks and damage, destroy crops, and turn the state a lovely shade of dusty brown. my family’s wild rice farm is in northern california, near mt. shasta. despite the numerous lakes, rivers, and dams in the area, we experience seasonal wildfires, some decimating thousands of acres of land. in fact, the largest reservoir in california is in shasta county, its water capacity is 4,552,000 acre⋅ft (5.615 km3). and while dams and reservoirs have their own ecological impacts, they are vital for collecting and storing rainwater. 

as for residential rainwater collection, it is not considered illegal in california to collect your own rainwater. some places even have rainwater harvesting incentive programs, but regulations may vary. when in doubt, collection of rainwater is best for plants and gardens, not for consumption. 

another form of water sequestration is infiltration basins, areas that allow water to naturally permeate the soil, filtering pollution, and refilling aquifers. cities like los angeles are far too dense and populated to have infiltration basins, but there are other methods of managing runoff and flood water that do not include water highways of cement and concrete. 

4. lack of gray infrastructure

last fall, i spoke to one of the researchers at tijuana river national estuarine research reserve, jeff crooks, ph.d. at the time, i did not realize that our conversation would be so relevant to my continued thoughts and research into statewide water issues.

we spoke about the importance of building gray infrastructure, and investing in better methods of collecting, treating, and diverting stormwater. i learned about the projects and goals of the estuary, and what we can do to solve the issues that the estuary is facing. crooks mentioned how the estuary can only filter so much stormwater before it flows directly into the ocean. therefore, it is vital that we build enough gray infrastructure to alleviate the pressures on the estuary. examples of gray infrastructure that would be beneficial are infiltration basins, stormwater storage, and water treatment plants. 

in 2014, california voted yes to passing the water quality, supply, and infrastructure improvement act of 2014, also known as proposition 1: water bond. a vote “yes” for this proposition supported issuing $7.12 billion in bonds for water supply infrastructure projects and allocating bond revenue. the goal of prop 1 was to allocate money to increasing gray infrastructure to better collect stormwater, protect drinking water, protect watersheds, drought preparedness, and flood management. but it’s 2023, and we’re seeing that a lot of work still needs to be done. 

there is a $19b-$24b dollar plan to transform the la river into a public open space and natural urban habitat over the next 25 years. it would help mitigate stormwater pollution, reduce drought impacts, increase public green spaces, and help to reduce the impacts of damaging and dangerous floods. amigos de los rios is one organization that is working to make this green infrastructure a reality.

they call these connected spaces of parks, gardens, and river paths the emerald necklace greenway. the goal is to connect the mountains and the ocean with public spaces that provide both public services and water sequestration via soil and plants. these areas are one of the best methods of flood reduction and are far more beautiful than entirely cemented washes and rivers

sustainable solutions for california

california is known as a dry place, with seasonal wildfires and never-ending droughts. however, storms like the ones we experienced last month are indicators that our weather is unpredictable. i believe that combining different methods and sciences to solve problems such as water management is key to finding sustainable solutions, preparing for droughts, and not polluting the ocean.

as erin satterthwaite said, look at a problem and see how the ecosystem interacts instead of looking at just one element. or as writer cj hauser says in the crane wife, “if you want to save a species, you don’t spend your time staring at the bird you want to save. you look at the things it relies on to live instead. you ask if there is enough to eat and drink. you ask if there is a safe place to sleep. is there enough here to survive?”

this is the takeaway: we must look at issues as whole entities, how we influence our environment, how their parts interact, and how they change, flow, and migrate. water is a vital resource that a state like california cannot afford to under-appreciate.

this story was featured in our series, slipping through our fingers: the future of water.

this estuary is fed by the tijuana river watershed, which covers 1,750 square miles of mexico and southern california. it is home to hundreds of native species, including birds such as loons, egrets, herons, and osprey, as well as many fish and reptile species, coyotes, bats, and even some small shark species such as the leopard shark. estuaries are living laboratories, rich in biodiversity and invaluable information. this reserve, and ones like it, are ecologic and geologic treasures, vital to biological health. they provide unique habitats, natural water filtration, and can be useful indicators of climate change. 

introducing jeff crooks

even though i have lived in san diego off and on since i was a child, i never knew that this gorgeous reserve existed until recently. once i heard about it, i knew i needed to learn more about it and the wonderful work that they do there. to do so, i reached out to jeff crooks. 

since 2002, crooks has been the research coordinator at trnerr. crooks received his ph.d. from the scripps institution of oceanography, university of california san diego. he was also a postdoctoral fellow at the smithsonian environmental research center in maryland and san francisco. crooks runs the reserve’s research and monitoring program started by the noaa nerr (national estuarian research reserves). it is known as the system-wide monitoring program or swmp. founded in 1996, it is now one of the longest running programs of its kind.  the goal of the project is to monitor the short-term variability and the long-term changes in the estuary. this includes monitoring weather, plants, animals, temperature, salinity and dissolved oxygen levels. these are invaluable indicators for the overall health of the estuary and surrounding areas.

what is an estuary?

estuaries have two main functions, said crooks. they filter water that flows from watersheds into the ocean, and they are habitats for hundreds of species. estuaries are found on the border of coastlines, where freshwater rivers and streams meet the ocean. freshwater flows through the watershed, picking up sediment and pollution. it then deposits into the estuary and becomes brackish water, salty but not as salty as ocean water. this is where the water is filtered via plants, and where extra sediment is collected. eventually, the filtered water joins the ocean, and the process is complete. according to crooks, one of the major services of an estuary is creating blue carbon, which is carbon that has been sequestered by plants and soil but will never be released back into the atmosphere. this is due to the constant moisture and aquatic plants that are far too wet to burn. unlike forests or grasslands that burn easily, marine plant matter is fire resistant. 

estuaries are also ecological goldmines. they are nesting grounds for birds and fish, and they are home to hundreds of plants, sharks, rays and skates, invertebrates, and benthic animals such as muscles and barnacles. estuaries provide a safe harbor for migrating birds and breeding grounds for many of these species. they also act as coastline nurseries, safe and protected from ocean storms. 

what are the threats to estuarine life?

unfortunately, this rich and biodiverse habitat is under threat from a variety of modern day challenges. according to crooks, during the rainy season, there can be 20-25 million gallons a day of stormwater entering the estuary. this stormwater is a mix of sediment, water, untreated sewage, garbage, and street and farm runoff. the damage that stormwater pollution has on biodiversity has the potential to be lethal. two of the most hazardous chemicals found in runoff are nitrates and phosphorus. these chemicals are found heavily in farm and city runoff, from waste and fertilizers. the introduction of these nutrients to estuaries, oceans, lakes, rivers, etc. can cause harmful algal blooms (habs), and subsequent dead zones. a dead zone, or hypoxic zone, is an area of water where a hab has occurred. these areas are devoid of nearly all marine life.

 a well-known hypoxic zone is in the gulf of mexico. this 6,334 square mile area became hypoxic due to the farm and urban runoff flowing down the mississippi river and into the gulf. as the nutrients from the runoff enter the watershed, it causes algal blooms. algal blooms eat up all the oxygen in the water. as the algae eventually decays, it clogs the gills of fish and invertebrates, and chokes corals and aquatic vegetation. these blooms can wipe out entire ecosystems of native and endemic species. and since most algae are invasive, they often out-compete native aquatic plants.  these blooms are incredibly hazardous to all life in the area, including humans. it can take many years for an ecosystem to return to normal after a hab, and in many cases, it never recovers. 

crooks also said that one of the other main threats to the estuary is sediment build-up. as stormwater enters the system it carries sediment with it. if the sediment is not filtered successfully, it will build up and smother plants, bird, and fish nests, and will later flow directly into the ocean. this can be hazardous for both human and animal species, as this sediment and stormwater may contain raw sewage. 

the reserve

at trnerr, they are dedicated to conserving the estuary and providing education, stewardship, volunteering, and research opportunities. they also value the history of the area by spotlighting the voices of members of the kumeyaay nation, san diego’s indigenous peoples in the reserve’s podcast, divided together.

so far, episodes of their podcast featured the voices of kristie orosco, of the san pasqual band of diegueno mission indians; mike connolly, of the campo band of diegueno mission indians, and ana gloria rodriguez, kumeyaay from san jose de la zorra. topics on the podcast have included land use practices of kumeyaay, the repercussions of splitting the kumeyaay land in two, and the cultural, social, and environmental impacts of the separation that was established in the 1850’s.   

at trnerr, there are also many fascinating and important research projects. crooks and i discussed some of the reserve’s research projects, including their project with uc san diego, called cross surfzone/inner-shelf dye exchange, or cside. ocean-safe dye was used to test the dispersion rate and direction of ocean water. researchers placed fluorescent pink dye in the surf zone to determine where the water goes if there are contaminants, invasives, or other forms of pollution. 

researchers have also released the dye at the mouth of the estuary on three separate days and found that the dye dispersed south, and then out to sea. this indicates that currents take most of the water south and then out, but not north. according to cside, this was a significant discovery, as pollution will follow a consistent dispersion and will mostly flow south towards mexico. 

this represents a health and safety issue, as the tijuana beaches to the south are popular tourist locations, and people and animals may be at risk. while most of the stormwater pollution in the area comes from mexico, it is imperative that the united states works with mexico to build the necessary infrastructure to mitigate the shared effects of pollution.

moving forward

trnerr and the united states government are working with canada and mexico to remedy some of the border’s pollution issues. the goal is to build more “gray infrastructure”, structures such as dams, seawalls, roads, pipes, or water treatment plants. this infrastructure will resolve some of the pollution issues, keep the watershed clean, reduce sediment buildup, provide jobs, and help to keep both people and animals healthy.

as of july 2022, the environmental protection agency, in a joint effort with u.s. international boundary and water commission, drafted their programmatic environmental impact statement, for the proposed united states-mexico-canada agreement. the proposed action is called the mitigation of contaminated transboundary flows project. the project’s goal is to build infrastructure to reduce transboundary flows of untreated wastewater, trash, and sediment. projects like these are wonderful examples of how we can cooperate and face these challenges together. 

i am so grateful for the work that  crooks and his team do at the reserve. their accomplishments far outnumber what i can include here, so please check out the trnerr website for information on their saturday speaker series to learn from estuary experts, go on guided nature walks, or volunteer. there you can also find their podcast divided together and learn more about the tijuana estuary, as well as the reserve’s educational and research programs. may they continue to protect such a beautiful place and bring awareness to how precious estuaries are.

here’s the thing: meat and animal products taste good all on their own, while vegan and vegetarian food require mastery. if you go to a vegan restaurant, the level of time, effort, and skill that must go into the food they’re creating goes above and beyond. further, the food requires no harm to animals, has less of a negative environmental impact, and, therefore, carries less guilt.

while it’s unlikely that everyone will adopt an entirely plant-based lifestyle, eating more sustainably should be everyone’s goal. eating more vegan or vegetarian meals, shopping locally, and using seasonal produce are some main ways to do that. animal agriculture is harmful to the environment in three major ways: excessive water use and greenhouse gas production, and destructive land use.

on the flip-side, there are many benefits to eating a plant-based diet, such as improved animal welfare and personal health, and better sustainability. i’ve been an ovo-vegetarian (someone whose diet includes eggs, but no dairy, meat, or fish) for a few years now. while living in san diego, i’ve been on the search for the best vegan restaurants. san diego is a wonderful place to be vegan or vegetarian, but as our need for more sustainable food grows, so does our need for more sustainable options. so, if you’re living in san diego, or just here for a visit, here are few of those places. they’re delicious, comforting, and provide an array of options that’ll satisfy even the most tenacious of meat eaters.

your new favorite jewish deli: ben & esther’s

a few months ago, a close friend of mine asked me to meet her for lunch at a spot that she’s been dying to try. we’re both vegetarian and are constantly on the hunt for the best vegetarian and vegan food in san diego. ben & esther’s is a hole in the wall style jewish deli, with all the fixings: giant jars of kosher pickles, a selection of baked goods, deli counter salads, and a list of classic sandwiches, bagels, and of course, schmears.

i’m not exaggerating when i say that i was over the moon after seeing the menu. my friend and i both ordered our sandwiches. i went for the rueben, a pickle, and a raspberry jammer for later. she got a bagel sandwich, and some schmear.

since then, i have moved around the block from their location on el cajon boulevard and i’m not embarrassed to say that i have eaten there almost every week since. even my non-vegan mother was impressed. she’s 71 and still asks if they have “regular” eggs at every vegan restaurant we go to.

i reached out to ben & esther’s founder justin king, whose grandparents are the deli’s namesakes. he put me in contact with his business partner marc bennett, who lives here in san diego. marc and i spoke about the main goal of the company, to make consistently quality and delicious jewish-american deli food.

ben & esther’s was born in portland, oregon, and has since opened three restaurants: the location on el cajon blvd., one in oceanside, california, and a second portland location. they are soon opening a location in seattle. marc says that their goal is to open locations all along the west coast, a goal i believe they will have no difficulty accomplishing.

vegan food, that’s reminiscent of your favorite jewish deli order? what more could you want? both justin and marc sign their emails “for the animals,” a phrase that speaks volumes, as kindness and accountability are two of the pillars of the vegan lifestyle. so next time you’re craving a blt or a philly cheesesteak, check out ben & esther’s. and make sure to grab a raspberry jammer for later, though be warned, it probably won’t survive the car ride.

the date-night spot: donna jean

i like to think that the future of food is in restaurants like donna jean. it’s a glorious, sustainable brunch and dinner restaurant on the outskirts of balboa park in san diego. i spoke to its founder chef roy elam about his gem of a vegan restaurant, whose namesake is his late mother, donna jean. when donna was diagnosed with breast cancer, her doctor recommended that she start eating a more plant-based diet. according to a 2017 review, a vegan diet reduces overall cancer risk by 15%. this is possibly due to the presence of phytochemicals — biologically active compounds in plants that help protect against cancer. there are other benefits of a vegan or vegetarian diet, such as better metabolic health, healthier gut microbiota, and lower cholesterol.

roy flew home to st. louis, missouri, to help her veganize some of her favorite recipes. years later, he was inspired to create a restaurant that, while plant-based and sustainable, offers beautiful and delicious seasonal dishes. my favorites are their house bread with maldon salt (i recommend upgrading to the garlic butter sauce — it’s unreal). seasonal dishes like the sea bean caesar salad, and their hot shrooms: deep fried oyster mushrooms with pickles and nashville style hot sauce.

they even have pasta and pizza, made with their own vegan cheese that actually melts. chef howe (of donna jean) and chef roy created scratch house vegan cheeses. chef howe was unimpressed with the vegan cheese options on the market and embarked on creating his own. just look at their “fungazi” pizza. i’m in love.  

chef roy works with local markets and produce suppliers to make a menu using seasonal and local produce. therefore, the menu will vary depending on season, and location. they have recently opened a second donna jean location in sherman oaks, a neighborhood in los angeles. reservations are required for the l.a. location, and strongly suggested for san diego. it’s just that good. chef roy eventually hopes to open another location, in st. louis, missouri, to bring home some of his amazing recipes. but in the meantime, make a reservation at donna jean in san diego or l.a., it’s food at its best: seasonal, sustainable, and comforting. i promise, donna jean will transform how you view vegan food.

the punk rock quick bite: underdog

the newest member of san diego’s vegan lineup is underdog, a food truck on the borders of university heights and north park. they opened their truck only three months ago, but they’re already getting noticed. i reached out to married duo chelsea and mark ross who created underdog. together they embarked on a journey to veganize classic street foods. they’ve both been vegan for two decades and wanted to create a food truck that’s entirely vegan but boasts all your favorite street foods. they’ve got everything from korean-style corn dogs to animal fries and chili dogs. the concept is vegan food but punk rock, no limits, no rules. 

as with the previous two establishments, underdog has a similar goal: providing delicious food without any harm to our animal friends. i’m a big fan of their corn dogs. they’re truly a perfect food; fluffy, savory, and served with a choice of condiments, though i’m a ketchup and yellow mustard purist all the way. however, the next time i stop by, i’m grabbing the “goblin’s club.” it’s their korean-style corn dog covered in french fries, panko, and sugar. 

i reached out to chelsea and mark. we spoke about how they’re stoked on the vegan community here in san diego and surprised at how strong it is. we bonded over our shared experience and how much we appreciate that san diego is becoming something of a vegan oasis. when you go looking for them, their truck is bright orange and parked on the corner of el cajon blvd. and texas st. you can’t miss it. they’ve got the perfect location if you’re looking to grab a quick bite. whether you’re vegan or not, they have an amazing selection of delicious options. they might be the underdogs in this list, but they’re already making a name for themselves.

the future is vegan 

not every city has as many vegan and vegetarian restaurants as san diego. however, the future looks promising and it’s thanks to restaurants like these. i am so grateful to ben & esther’s, donna jean, and underdog for making excellent dishes that give vegan food a new trope: good to your taste buds, and good to the planet. these restaurants have helped make me more optimistic for the future of vegan food, that maybe people (regardless of diet) will choose to eat at plant-based restaurants. making this choice becomes significantly easier when there are more vegan restaurants to choose from. so, whether you live here, or are visiting, i hope you choose to check out one of these restaurants. i promise that you’ll love them.