the history

the idea of sustainable fashion has been around for decades, sprouting from rationing during both world wars. to conserve materials for soldiers, governments asked their citizens to trim dresses short and donate unwanted clothes for the military. 

it landed in the spotlight during the 1980’s when companies like patagonia and espirit gained notoriety for making clothing out of recycled polyesters and organic cotton. 

fast fashion: the enemy of sustainable fashion

fast fashion is considered to be the status quo of how the fashion industry is run, which is exemplified by companies like h&m and zara that sell their clothes for extremely low prices and change styles quickly. traditional clothing companies cut costs and are concerned more about the economic bottom line than the health of the environment. it is important to remember that buying cheap comes at a high cost for the environment and laborers. 

according to unesco, some chinese laborers that are hired by these large clothing companies are paid just 12 cents an hour for their work. in addition to the negative human impacts, the industry also requires toxic dyes and pesticides to produce the products due to the speed of which it runs. zara uses a rapid five-week cycle to design, manufacture and then sell new clothing products. if the products do not sell they often times end up in the landfill. 

the independent reported in november 2017 that workers in istanbul’s bravo tekstil factory, which makes clothes for zara, sewed pleas for help in the clothing that they were making. according to the article, factory laborers were fed up with working conditions but were scared of speaking up because of fears of getting fired.

the notion of consumerism goes hand-in-hand with fast fashion. as fashion trends evolve, so does the public’s appetite for purchasing new clothes. patagonia founder yvon chouinard is famous for an ad campaign that was printed in the new york times that showed an image of a patagonia jacket with the statement “do not buy this jacket” written in bold letters. the message was intended to encourage people to think about what they purchase and only buy clothing when they absolutely need it.

remedies for fast fashion

one of the simplest actions that you can take to limit your carbon footprint is to donate old or worn down clothes to thrift stores or charities. this way, it gives clothes a second life for those individuals that actually need it. you also may want to think about giving clothes that do not fit to friends and family.

another way to function in the sustainable fashion model is to buy clothes from thrift stores. not only are thrift stores much cheaper than buying new clothes from high fashion brands, but you also will be giving clothes a second chance. consequentially many of the clothes that are sold at thrift stores are no longer made in circulation. meaning that the piece that you purchase will be individual and can add a little swagger!

there is a movement in high fashion to create trendy articles of clothing out of recycled or sustainable materials. designer ryan jude novelline designed a ballroom gown made out of old children’s books. lucy tammam is a designer who creates beautiful bridal wear with just silk and organic cotton. 

clothing to look out for while shopping

if you have no appeal to high fashion or are just too strapped for cash, there are other sustainable fashion options on the market.

adidas has partnered with parley, an organization that salvages plastic from the ocean, to make shoes, shirts, and socks. the plastic that otherwise would infiltrate marine life digestive tracts is now being turned into clothing through the initiative. some major european soccer teams that are sponsored by adidas have worn recycled jerseys in competitive matches. 

another option is the shoe brand all-birds, which have become quite popular. their sleek design, relatively inexpensive price, and environmentally friendly materials will show your friends that you are sustainably conscience while also being fashionable. the sneakers are made up of recycled plastics, cardboard, organic wool and castor bean oil (an alternative to harmful oils). 

questions to consider 

how often do you shop for clothing?

would you rather have expensive but durable clothing or cheap but flimsy clothing?

what are your thoughts on using recycled materials to make a fashion statement?

considering the facts about fast fashion, how does your favorite brand of clothing compare to others in terms of their consciousness of the environment?

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q&a with sustainable shoe designer louis d’arienzo

louis d’arienzo designs sustainable shoes with a company called florent belda in porto, portugal. here is what he had to say about sustainable fashion:

q: what does sustainable fashion mean to you?

a: sustainable is a very broad term that is often misused. for me, my business and my product it is making the lowest environmental impact i possibly can from the materials i use to the partners i work with; how they practice and promote better ways of making for the planet and the people they employ.

q: sustainability also has the long term in mind. what happens when the product’s life is over? are the processes and ingredients using natural resources and at the same time not depleting those resources and maintaining balance?

a: right now i try to use a mix of recycled and biodegradable materials wherever absolutely possible.

q: where did you get your start in sustainable manufacturing?

a: i have always tried to implement the use of less damaging materials and methods for all of the companies i have had the pleasure of working for. when i decided to launch my own collection of footwear i knew it needed to be borne with this ethos.

if you start from the beginning with this mindset and approach, while challenging and at times limiting, you are able to make it a part of your dna. it forces you not to stray.

q: what/who influenced you to start manufacturing sustainable sneakers?

a: the state our planet is in! it made no sense whatsoever to put a new product out on the market that didn’t acknowledge the damage that is being done. it was my obligation.

q: what are your products made out of (and where do the resources come from)?

a: i use vegetable tanned leather and lining for my uppers that use no chromium or heavy metals in the tanning process that can gravely pollute the water table. i found a sole manufacturer in portugal that produces soles made from up to 70% internally recycled waste material. the inner workings and structural parts use cork, cardboard and biodegradable components. we are partly using 100%rpet thread (polyester) from plastic beverage bottles.  all of our adhesives are water-based avoiding volatile solvents that can be hazardous for the people working with them.

q: you mention pursuing the higg index in your business model, can you talk a little bit about what those guidelines mean?

a: the higg index was initiated by the sustainable apparel coalition. it essentially provides the tools for a company to measure its product’s or facility’s sustainability performance. it is designed to promote better practice during the sustainability journey.  it is not designed to fail, but to encourage and guide.

q: why do you think it is so important to pay your laborers a fair, living wage?

a: all humans have inherent dignity and should be treated and compensated fairly. right now i have no employees but this is a conversation i’ve had with my shoe factory who upholds the highest standards of inclusiveness and fairness.

q: why portugal?

a: portugal has always held a respected tradition of shoe and leather goods manufacturing. in the past 15 years they have really come to the forefront of quality, reliable product with an artisanal hand. more and more companies from the luxury sector to start-ups are turning their attention to portugal. portugal is also a very progressive country environmentally and socially.

q: how do you reconcile leaving your post as a designer for high-end fashion markets?

a: i actually still work as a design consultant in the luxury sector for a well known milanese fashion house.

q: what is your goal for the sneaker company?

a: to continue building and nurturing my business expanding into more product category while respecting the environment and being true to my message. i look forward to taking part in more rewarding collaborations supporting and empowering people and communities that need it most.

q: what do you want to see come out of the sustainable fashion model?

a: i believe in sharing our resources, breakthroughs, and successes. the only way forward is to engage and help each other who work in the materials and manufacturing industries. if we are all striving to make every effort to create products that respect the environment our industries will truly become sustainable ones.

q: how do you make the shoes attractive and affordable to middle-class customers?

a: my designs are quite pared down but that doesn’t make the decision making in their design and execution easy. i feel their simplicity makes them accessible yet the detailing and color combinations keep them compelling and rather joyful.

“kashia culture and identity is strongly rooted in the natural world. managing our natural resources and lands in a way that increases their resiliency and productivity ensures our traditional practices and cultural values are passed to future generations.”

—abby gomes, kashia band of pomo indians tribe member

before colonization, the kashia band of pomo indians lived along california’s vast sonoma county coast. by 1915 the kashia only owned .007% of their original territory on a reservation called stewarts point rancheria, or as the tribe calls it “su nu nu shinal” (meaning “huckleberry heights”). this drastic decrease in territory caused equally drastic changes for the kashia’s livelihood, diet, and culture forcing many tribe members to live off-reservation. today, with the help of numerous organizations, the kashia’s reservation and territories span around 1,230 acres, including the kashia coastal reserve. with this increase in territory, kashia land management and cultural practices also resurged.

i had the opportunity to learn about the reintroduction of such practices from kashia tribe members abby gomes, hannah banuelos, and otis parrish. kashia traditional practices teach invaluable lessons on living in harmony with the environment for ourselves and our local ecosystems.

sustainable land and resource management

the dense pine forests we see today did not exist prior to european settlement. in fact, many of the trees and shrubs that now litter the coast are invasive species which have taken over without indigenous land management. the kashia previously managed such species through burning the brush, maintaining the iconic california “golden hills” landscape. “periodic cultural burnings maintained these coastal grasslands and openings from encroachment by bishop pine forest and coastal scrub,” kashia member gomes said. the cultural burnings also encouraged seed germination of native plant species as well as the presence of large populations of deer and elk through maintaining their natural grazing areas. “the land and natural resources were managed in a way that ensured their continuance and productivity into the future.”

this cultural burning is being reintroduced to the area by the kashia to manage invasive species, reduce forest fires, encourage native species growth, and restore natural habitat.

beyond periodic burning, the kashia are also taking a traditional-turned-modern approach to maintaining their ecosystems through formally surveying and monitoring their reserve with their planned kashia coastal reserve tribal citizen science monitoring program.

according to gomes, the program “includes kashia values and is modeled after the greater farallones association’s beach watch program.” the kashia program plans to engage tribe members in monitoring human use activities and resources important to the tribe including marine mammals and bird species.

one large problem the tribe faces is the lack of marine resources upon which they depend. private land ownership of the tribe’s former territory, restrictions made by government, and overharvesting by those outside the tribe cause this scarcity.

maintaining the ability to gather these coastal resources ensures the continuance of cultural traditions and practices,” gomes said. “returning back to the coast, (the) kashia (tribe) now has an opportunity to reconnect its tribe membership with the ocean and revitalize its cultural traditions, practices, and land management values.”

despite hindrances that have developed post-colonization, the tribe manages its coastal reserve through these practices as a gateway for educating the public about kashia history and practices.

seasonal and native diet

kashia people were migratory in the sonoma region. in the summer they gathered food from the ocean focusing mainly on seaweed but also mussels, “abalone, fish, sea anemone and kelp” according to tribe member banuelos. during the spring, the tribe fished the river for salmon and trout. during the colder seasons, the tribe harvested indian potatoes, clovers, and acorns. however, according to fellow tribe member parrish, european settlement introduced non-native foods including “flour, coffee, pigs…sheep…melons, cabbage, carrots, and apples.”

as a result of adding non-native foods to their diets, and given the reduction in harvesting territory, tribe members have since suffered from assorted illnesses including diabetes.

but, banuelos says, “a lot of elders really rely on their traditional foods…it makes them feel better. they believe in it. it makes their body and their health a bit stronger.” that is to say, tribe members believe in maintaining their health and ecosystems through consuming native food.

there are specific traditions the tribe follows before, during, and after harvesting, processing, and preparing native food.

according to banuelos, “there’s preparation…they do a little ceremony…they pray with clapper sticks…sing songs for thanking the ocean for providing food for us. we only take what we need for our family.” this spiritual connection with indigenous food affirms how the kashia are grateful for their sustenance and take only what is needed — an important concept given the amount of food waste occurring throughout the united states.

continuing kashia practices

to perpetuate kashia sustainable practices through their culture, the tribe also emphasizes financial security for tribal members, and the importance of preserving kashia language.

it is difficult to keep tribe members engaged if they cannot afford to live on or near the reservation, especially with california’s rising housing prices. banuelos emphasizes “more homes on the land for our tribe would be good. (we) try to make sure our people are taken care of first… otherwise, i think our tribe is doing pretty good.”

according to parrish, the loss of language is the largest problem given it is a vehicle for passing on traditional practices. he highlights that when one learns their culture’s stories, “the story becomes a part of them.”

for banuelos and parrish, the key to ensuring financial security and preserving their culture is to focus on kashia youth. parrish said, “to our young people, get an education and come back to our people and do something constructive for everybody. that’s the message my generation has given to the next generation coming up.”

by improving financial security, teaching the kashia language, and focusing on the next generation, kashia could flourish and continue to be an example of a society living in harmony with the environment through sustainable land, resource, and food management practices.

it takes passion, dedication, and innovation to start a businesses, but there is always a good helping of risk. the creation of this urban microgreen farm and its dedicated partner, a sustainability-mindful pub/restaurant, involved nothing less.

when mary ackley decided to follow her passion of getting her hands dirty, she started the farm called little wild things. but she also set out to prove that locally sourced, organic produce can be elegant, delicious, and a profitable business model, especially in an urban setting like washington, d.c. now her produce graces the shelves and kitchens of over 20 different local markets, grocery stores, and restaurants–both fast-casual and fine-dining. but without the pub and the people, the pub/restaurant whose basement her farm occupies, she wouldn’t have been able to make it nearly this far.

former leed architect nick bemel and his three partners also took a risk in quitting their day jobs to open a classic but quirky neighborhood bar. yet, they couldn’t shake their dedication to sustainability from their bones. so they designed the neighborhood hangout to be as sustainable as possible–the interior is built with reclaimed wood, all of their systems are the most efficient on the market, and they’re about to install solar panels on their roof. their chef also prioritizes sourcing local produce, much of which comes from the farm right downstairs. besides the numerous environmental benefits, it cuts their operation costs by a pretty penny. quality food and facilities that are ultimately easy on your business’ bottom line? bemel didn’t even think twice before he lent the space to ackley and little wild things. 

so next time you order an omelet for brunch, imagine how much fuel was burned when it was trucked in all the way from new england — or latin america, depending on the season.

now imagine that this morning, it was plucked fresh from organic soil just 10 feet below where you’re sitting and then walked up a flight of stairs. doesn’t your mouth water with the possibilities? 

so support local businesses that, like the pub and urban farm above, throw caution to the wind and dare to be sustainable, profitable, and wildly popular all at once.