here’s the thing: meat and animal products taste good all on their own, while vegan and vegetarian food require mastery. if you go to a vegan restaurant, the level of time, effort, and skill that must go into the food they’re creating goes above and beyond. further, the food requires no harm to animals, has less of a negative environmental impact, and, therefore, carries less guilt.

while it’s unlikely that everyone will adopt an entirely plant-based lifestyle, eating more sustainably should be everyone’s goal. eating more vegan or vegetarian meals, shopping locally, and using seasonal produce are some main ways to do that. animal agriculture is harmful to the environment in three major ways: excessive water use and greenhouse gas production, and destructive land use.

on the flip-side, there are many benefits to eating a plant-based diet, such as improved animal welfare and personal health, and better sustainability. i’ve been an ovo-vegetarian (someone whose diet includes eggs, but no dairy, meat, or fish) for a few years now. while living in san diego, i’ve been on the search for the best vegan restaurants. san diego is a wonderful place to be vegan or vegetarian, but as our need for more sustainable food grows, so does our need for more sustainable options. so, if you’re living in san diego, or just here for a visit, here are few of those places. they’re delicious, comforting, and provide an array of options that’ll satisfy even the most tenacious of meat eaters.

your new favorite jewish deli: ben & esther’s

a few months ago, a close friend of mine asked me to meet her for lunch at a spot that she’s been dying to try. we’re both vegetarian and are constantly on the hunt for the best vegetarian and vegan food in san diego. ben & esther’s is a hole in the wall style jewish deli, with all the fixings: giant jars of kosher pickles, a selection of baked goods, deli counter salads, and a list of classic sandwiches, bagels, and of course, schmears.

i’m not exaggerating when i say that i was over the moon after seeing the menu. my friend and i both ordered our sandwiches. i went for the rueben, a pickle, and a raspberry jammer for later. she got a bagel sandwich, and some schmear.

since then, i have moved around the block from their location on el cajon boulevard and i’m not embarrassed to say that i have eaten there almost every week since. even my non-vegan mother was impressed. she’s 71 and still asks if they have “regular” eggs at every vegan restaurant we go to.

i reached out to ben & esther’s founder justin king, whose grandparents are the deli’s namesakes. he put me in contact with his business partner marc bennett, who lives here in san diego. marc and i spoke about the main goal of the company, to make consistently quality and delicious jewish-american deli food.

ben & esther’s was born in portland, oregon, and has since opened three restaurants: the location on el cajon blvd., one in oceanside, california, and a second portland location. they are soon opening a location in seattle. marc says that their goal is to open locations all along the west coast, a goal i believe they will have no difficulty accomplishing.

vegan food, that’s reminiscent of your favorite jewish deli order? what more could you want? both justin and marc sign their emails “for the animals,” a phrase that speaks volumes, as kindness and accountability are two of the pillars of the vegan lifestyle. so next time you’re craving a blt or a philly cheesesteak, check out ben & esther’s. and make sure to grab a raspberry jammer for later, though be warned, it probably won’t survive the car ride.

the date-night spot: donna jean

i like to think that the future of food is in restaurants like donna jean. it’s a glorious, sustainable brunch and dinner restaurant on the outskirts of balboa park in san diego. i spoke to its founder chef roy elam about his gem of a vegan restaurant, whose namesake is his late mother, donna jean. when donna was diagnosed with breast cancer, her doctor recommended that she start eating a more plant-based diet. according to a 2017 review, a vegan diet reduces overall cancer risk by 15%. this is possibly due to the presence of phytochemicals — biologically active compounds in plants that help protect against cancer. there are other benefits of a vegan or vegetarian diet, such as better metabolic health, healthier gut microbiota, and lower cholesterol.

roy flew home to st. louis, missouri, to help her veganize some of her favorite recipes. years later, he was inspired to create a restaurant that, while plant-based and sustainable, offers beautiful and delicious seasonal dishes. my favorites are their house bread with maldon salt (i recommend upgrading to the garlic butter sauce — it’s unreal). seasonal dishes like the sea bean caesar salad, and their hot shrooms: deep fried oyster mushrooms with pickles and nashville style hot sauce.

they even have pasta and pizza, made with their own vegan cheese that actually melts. chef howe (of donna jean) and chef roy created scratch house vegan cheeses. chef howe was unimpressed with the vegan cheese options on the market and embarked on creating his own. just look at their “fungazi” pizza. i’m in love.  

chef roy works with local markets and produce suppliers to make a menu using seasonal and local produce. therefore, the menu will vary depending on season, and location. they have recently opened a second donna jean location in sherman oaks, a neighborhood in los angeles. reservations are required for the l.a. location, and strongly suggested for san diego. it’s just that good. chef roy eventually hopes to open another location, in st. louis, missouri, to bring home some of his amazing recipes. but in the meantime, make a reservation at donna jean in san diego or l.a., it’s food at its best: seasonal, sustainable, and comforting. i promise, donna jean will transform how you view vegan food.

the punk rock quick bite: underdog

the newest member of san diego’s vegan lineup is underdog, a food truck on the borders of university heights and north park. they opened their truck only three months ago, but they’re already getting noticed. i reached out to married duo chelsea and mark ross who created underdog. together they embarked on a journey to veganize classic street foods. they’ve both been vegan for two decades and wanted to create a food truck that’s entirely vegan but boasts all your favorite street foods. they’ve got everything from korean-style corn dogs to animal fries and chili dogs. the concept is vegan food but punk rock, no limits, no rules. 

as with the previous two establishments, underdog has a similar goal: providing delicious food without any harm to our animal friends. i’m a big fan of their corn dogs. they’re truly a perfect food; fluffy, savory, and served with a choice of condiments, though i’m a ketchup and yellow mustard purist all the way. however, the next time i stop by, i’m grabbing the “goblin’s club.” it’s their korean-style corn dog covered in french fries, panko, and sugar. 

i reached out to chelsea and mark. we spoke about how they’re stoked on the vegan community here in san diego and surprised at how strong it is. we bonded over our shared experience and how much we appreciate that san diego is becoming something of a vegan oasis. when you go looking for them, their truck is bright orange and parked on the corner of el cajon blvd. and texas st. you can’t miss it. they’ve got the perfect location if you’re looking to grab a quick bite. whether you’re vegan or not, they have an amazing selection of delicious options. they might be the underdogs in this list, but they’re already making a name for themselves.

the future is vegan 

not every city has as many vegan and vegetarian restaurants as san diego. however, the future looks promising and it’s thanks to restaurants like these. i am so grateful to ben & esther’s, donna jean, and underdog for making excellent dishes that give vegan food a new trope: good to your taste buds, and good to the planet. these restaurants have helped make me more optimistic for the future of vegan food, that maybe people (regardless of diet) will choose to eat at plant-based restaurants. making this choice becomes significantly easier when there are more vegan restaurants to choose from. so, whether you live here, or are visiting, i hope you choose to check out one of these restaurants. i promise that you’ll love them.

but one project through the global health institute demonstrates that insects can be so much more — like a sustainable protein alternative. entomophagy, the scientific term for eating insects, is becoming a growing trend — one inciting significant research at uw.

postdoctoral environmental health scientist valerie stull directs the mission to improve global health through insects, an initiative that examines the myriad of implications that might come with eating and farming insects — either for human or livestock consumption.

stull said mighti uses an interdisciplinary lens to analyze the social, environmental and public health-related effects these practices could have.

“we are assessing the impacts of insect farming on people’s livelihoods, health and agroecosystems,” stull said.

stull’s research happens both here and abroad — stull said her team works with communities where entomophagy is already commonplace to study its impacts on public health and environment. they try to determine if these communities that eat insects may also be interested in farming them, and what effects that could have. the locations of these communities range from zambia, south africa, uganda and guatemala.

but why eat insects? to americans who have never heard of entomophagy, the practice could seem unappealing. stull, however, disagrees.

“edible insects are fascinating because while humans have consumed insects throughout history, and about two billion people around the globe regularly consume them now, research on the subject is relatively new,” stull said. “they are under-explored and underutilized on a global scale.”

director of the global health institute jonathan patz works through the institute to support stull’s project, along with uw entomology and the nelson institute for environmental sciences.

patz described some of the environmental benefits entomophagy could have on communities. because insects are rich in high-quality protein and demand only modest resources like food, water, land and energy to rear, they may prove a sustainable alternative to other meat industries.

patz, however, described certain challenges to implementing insect consumption in areas where entomophagy isn’t a cultural commonplace.

“the biggest hurdles that still remain are cultural norms in places unaccustomed to eating insects — like in the u.s.,” patz said. “more research is still needed in address food safety issues, and our feeding studies are aimed to provide an answer in this area.”

stull also cited cultural barriers as potential hindrances to spreading entomophagy.

stull described overcoming these as a process toward cultural competency and communication — one that while difficult, also proves rewarding. it’s important to modify the narrative that insects are not food and share knowledge with groups both locally and globally, she said.

moving forward, stull plans to continue coordinating the logistics of efficient insect farming. one of her goals is to potentially rear insects to feed livestock in wisconsin.

her team is currently researching the “bioavailability of micronutrients found in insects” — essentially the potential nutritional value of insects — in hopes of moving this and other endeavors forwards.

“we plan to continue to investigate the social, environmental and health implications of insect agriculture broadly,” stull said.

patz said mighti aims to have an effect on lower-income countries first to more efficiently enhance nutrition, and stull outlined some of their goals in these countries and regions. stull said mighti hopes to provide user-friendly insect farming kits and training materials to farmers to test the impacts insect farming could have on health and nutrition at the household scale.

stull’s team published several studies on the holistic effects of entomophagy in communities. one study focused on the effect of cooperation between industry, government and academia can have when attempting to implement edible insects. another focused specifically on a case study in zambia, and the most recent study took a microscopic approach by examining the effects of cricket consumption on the human gut.

“i hope my research will have a global impact,” stull said. “simply changing the narrative about insects as food is an important piece of the puzzle.”
 

by andré earls

washington – several hundred animal rights activists joined similar groups around the world on saturday to protest cruelty to animals, marching from the white house to the capitol as they chanted such slogans as “animal clothing isn’t fashion, where the hell is your compassion.”

the washington organization total liberation partnered with the united kingdom animal rights organization surge, which organized marches in about 50 other locations including london, toronto, and mexico city, organizers said.

for about two hours, the marchers protested clothing made of animal skins and meat consumption, among other examples of cruelty to animals.

jackfruit, otherwise known as durian, has been touted as a “superfood” because of its dense nutritional properties. named after the jack tree from which the fruit is harvested, jackfruit is known to be a low-calorie, zero cholesterol, fiber rich meat-replacement. unlike other faux meats, jackfruit is soy and gluten free, and is naturally rich in vitamins and minerals.

this super fruit’s popularity also can be credited to its unprocessed nature. when harvested before ripened, often referred to as “young” jackfruit, the fruit has a pulled chicken-like texture, creating a more meat-like alternative to tofu, a soy-based protein, or tempeh, a wheat gluten-based protein. the fruit is then packaged as is; no alteration or chemical additives necessary.

i decided to make my way to chinatown in new york city to further investigate this increasingly popular ingredient. orchard grocer, a 100% vegan supermarket and deli, is among the many eateries incorporating jackfruit into their dishes. the small shop is popularly known for its bbq jackfruit and cabbage slaw sandwich, or, as they call it, “the emma” sandwich. 

upon entering the shop, i met a man who referred to the jackfruit sandwich as “the most meat-like vegan sandwich” he had ever tried. as a non-vegan, he said his initial perception was “very chicken vibes,” however he later asserted that the jackfruit itself has “little-to-no flavor” while it does take on the flavor of whatever it is spiced with. it is interesting that even among those without dietary restrictions, jackfruit seems to hold some status. 

after a personal taste test, i found my reaction to jackfruit to be fairly similar to the aforementioned man’s perception. the durian was essentially coated in a bbq sauce, altogether hiding whatever minimal taste the fruit itself possessed. the cabbage slaw offered a nice crunch and change of texture, while the bread, like a sponge, absorbed all the steam the once-hot sandwich released, deteriorating the sandwich’s overall quality. judging the jackfruit alone though, i found myself to be fond of this up and coming super fruit. 

so, why is this food becoming increasingly trendy? i contacted a representative of the jackfruit company, one of the companies at the frontline of this trend. the jackfruit company is turning out packaged and seasoned jackfruit for retail, offering a sustainable, healthy product while also supporting farmers’ trades. upon inquiring as to why the business was initially created, the company’s representative said that their founder, annie, “saw tons of jackfruit going to waste in the industry’s origin country, india, and wanted to figure out a way to change that.” the representative also mentioned that jackfruit’s high-yield and drought-resistance makes it an easy go-to for countries with high hunger rates. jackfruit seems to be a super fruit in more ways than one. 

as the world becomes more conscious of the need for sustainable and “greener” efforts, there is no question as to why a highly nutritious, yet environmentally friendly, crop has become popularized. the nation’s drive toward health and wellness supports jackfruit’s trendiness, particularly among younger generations. this new vegan “meat” option seems to be making its mark across the country and the globe. so, next time you hit the supermarket, be on the lookout for this super fruit.

if you’re interested in creating an at-home jackfruit masterpiece, checkout the recipe below and feast upon a sustainable, nutrient-dense and cost-effective meal!

bbq pulled jackfruit sandwich: a recipe that will feed your body + soul

ingredients:
1 can of jackfruit (i use trader joe’s because it only costs $1.99 but whole foods and a number of other grocery stores carry it too, sometimes at a significantly higher price though!)
4 tablespoons of barbecue sauce
6 whole wheat buns 
2 tablespoons of olive oil
suggested toppings:
– cilantro
– vegan cheese
– onion
– tomato
– lettuce

directions:
1. drain brine from jackfruit.
2. grab a skillet pan and turn up the heat on your stove top to medium.
3. add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the skillet pan and bring it to a simmer.
4. add your drained can of jackfruit and stir as it heats up for about 4 minutes.
5. pour 4 tablespoons of your choice of barbecue sauce into the skillet and stir until the jackfruit is completely and evenly coated in sauce. allow the jackfruit, olive oil, and barbecue sauce mixture to simmer for 4 more minutes.
6. prepare your buns (i like to heat up a separate pan and toast the buns for about 30 seconds on each side but if you like ‘em straight out of the bag, go for it!).
7. remove the barbecued jackfruit from heat and place about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of the mixture between the buns.
8. add whatever toppings you have on hand and dig in! and, as you enjoy your sandwich, soak in the effort and thought you’ve put into the nutritious and environmentally conscious meal you’ve now prepared for yourself!

_________

references

alexander, p., brown, c., arneth, a., dias, c., finnigan, j., moran, d., & rounsevell, m. d. a. (2017). could consumption of insects, cultured meat or imitation meat reduce global agricultural land use? global food security, 15, 22–32. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.gfs.2017.04.001

meat-ing demand: is in vitro meat a pragmatic, problematic, or paradoxical …: @ esf libraries. (n.d.). retrieved february 7, 2019, from http://eds.a.ebscohost.com/eds/pdfviewer/pdfviewer?vid=6&sid=054d4f6b-31a3-431a-9f25-244bf6e498f2%40sdc-v-sessmgr05

penn, j. (2018). “cultured meat”: lab-grown beef and regulating the future meat market. ucla journal of environmental law & policy, (1), 104.

it’s no secret meat isn’t the most eco-friendly food to pile on your plate. globally, the meat industry emits an estimated 18% of total greenhouse gas emissions, and is considered a leading contributor to deforestation, biodiversity loss, and water pollution. additionally, animal agriculture accounts for more land use than any other food source, and ushers overuse of hormones, and antibiotics, which leach into our water and food systems.

and although many of us are already aware of the unsustainability of meat, humans still have quite the appetite for meat, which has climbed in recent years, and is projected to peak in 2018.

…which governments have subsidized

the global explosion of enthusiastic meat consumption has to do with a variety of factors, including increases in disposable income, and the heavy subsidization of the industry in many parts of the world, including the united states.

and while it’s often easy to point at meat as a source of environmental and health issues, it is worth noting that meat can be a valuable source of energy, protein, amino acids, and essential micronutrients, including iron and b12, all of which are important in preventing many global malnutrition-related conditions, including protein-energy deficits and anemia.

still, it’s hard to justify pouring billions into a food source that is contributing so greatly to climate change when there are an estimated 815 million hungry people on earth.

we can’t address global food insecurity without creating a more sustainable food system. and one of the biggest areas of opportunity for improvement lies in our ability to cut down on meat production.

how we shift our funding towards a sustainable, food secure future:

many high and low-tech alternatives exist as promising solutions, but many remain underappreciated or underfunded. by redirecting global animal agriculture subsidies, there is great opportunity for impact.

which next begs the question, where do these funds go? we can begin to subsidize more eco-friendly alternatives, but considering the global diversity in palates, cultures, landscapes, and infrastructures, we need more than a one-size-fits all approach.

it’s overly optimistic to expect steak-lovers to willingly swap beans for beef, and plain unrealistic to suggest high-tech meat startups are the solution in countries that lack the proper infrastructure.

so, here are 5 animal agriculture-free, protein alternatives to shift our animal agriculture funding into:

1. subsidize research and production of meat made from plants:

meat, technically speaking, is a composition of water, proteins, amino acids, minerals, fatty acids, vitamins, minerals, and small amounts of carbohydrates. all of these building blocks can be found or fostered in plants.

several protein-alternative startups are building brands on this principle. by piecing together building blocks of meat from plant-foods, and processing them together with new technology, they are able to create meat alternatives that smell, taste, feel, and cook just like meat.

by offering “meat made from plants” to appease the carnivore palate, companies like beyond meat and impossible foods are a wiser way to channel animal subsidy dollars, and offer an appealing, yet sustainable meat choice for meat-lovers in many parts of the world. subsidizing such technologies (as leonardo dicaprio already has) could ensure products continue to improve and decrease in price, giving meat-lovers a meat with lesser harm to the environment.

2. subsidize research and production of lab-grown meat

for those looking for another alternative that comes from animals rather than plants, several start up companies are working to bring lab-grown meat to market. companies like mosa meat and just foods, are pioneering lab-grown meat.

mosa meat products, for example, are made from small samples of muscle stem cells taken from real animals. known as “myosatellite” cells, these cells serve the specific function of creating new muscle tissue upon injury. cells are next placed in a medium of nutrients and growth factors, cultivating their growth. strands of cells are then layered together to create real meat – the only difference being that theirs is grown outside – rather than inside – the animal.

rather than devote land, water, and feed grains to grow and butcher livestock, lab-grown meat requires far fewer resources, and emits far fewer greenhouse gases.  

by shifting government funds from land and feed-requiring meats to lab-grown meat, die-hard carnivores can rest assured their steaks aren’t soon to be replaced with tofu. subsidizing these technologies can ensure their affordability and continual improvement.

3. subsidize edible insect agriculture

insects hold great promise as a sustainable source of animal protein. requiring far less land, water, and producing far fewer greenhouse gas emissions than most mammalian protein sources, insects are a highly nutritious food source that is often overlooked. while edible insect nutrient profiles vary by species, many are micronutrient rich in vitamins and minerals including zinc, calcium, and iron, which are often lacking from diets of malnourished people.

some are even energy dense, which could combat protein and energy deficiencies. additionally, insects have low technological and monetary start-up costs, and are a viable option in developing countries where resources are limited. insects are a wise and low-cost subsidy option which could address hunger far and wide.

4. subsidize algae production

algae is another fast-growing, high quality, and underappreciated source of protein. importantly, algae is one of the few plant-based sources of b12, which is essential for proper neurological function and prevention of anemia. furthermore, there are a lot of algae strains around the world, and cultivating algae does not require arable land, and can be done in many water environments including marshes, swamps, hot springs, and even under ice, and can also be grown in a lab, offering a promising, scalable option in many parts of the world.

5. subsidize organic – or any – produce alternatives

fruits, vegetables, and legumes (besides soy) are drastically under-supported by government entities compared to staple grains and animal feed. although developed nations often tout fruits and vegetables as essential to a healthful diet, many channel far more funding into meat, animal, and grains like corn and wheat.

by subsidizing fruits and vegetables, people will be better-able to afford these nutrient-dense food choices, and have a better chance at avoiding micronutrient deficiencies. and although not a large source of protein per se, most plant-foods have at least some traces of protein, all of which add up and can contribute to protein and energy intake.

how to move forward:

there are many more sustainable ways to direct worldwide subsidies currently supporting animal agriculture. to solve global hunger, we need a global, cooperative approach to create sustainable food choices with minimal environmental impacts. if developed and developing countries refocus their protein investments, this vision is possible.

and while politically-willed hypotheticals sometimes seem like far-off solutions, there are still things we as citizens can do to nurture these changes. from selecting to spending our dollars on sustainable protein alternatives, educating ourselves and others on the reality of our global food system, and showing up with our political voice in support of institutional change, together we can empower a more food secure future.

cliff’s notes:

sound familiar? welcome to america, where the average citizen consumes a staggering 217.5 pounds of meat each year, a figure that far exceeds the global average of 41.3 pounds per capita. meat is part of our culture; many of us grew up with meat at the center of our dinner plates, under the impression that it was good for us. yet, in recent years, mounting evidence has suggested high levels of meat consumption may not be the healthiest option for our bodies and our planet. so why are we still married to meat, despite the warning signs?

nutrition scientists have been investigating meat for years. in 2015 the international agency for research on cancer (iarc) classified processed meat as a carcinogen, and red meat as a probable carcinogen. the who and american cancer society next urged the public to limit meat consumption. diets rich in animal protein are also linked to increased cardiovascular risks and all-cause mortality, while those high in plant-protein show protective effects.

from a sustainability standpoint, livestock has a higher water and carbon footprint than any other food, emitting significant amounts of methane and other greenhouse gases from their farts and burps. researchers estimate that it takes about 100 times the amount of water to produce animal protein compared to vegetable protein. this all goes without mentioning, of course, the animal welfare concerns many have surrounding commercially raised meat.

with climate change an urgent threat, and historically high rates of chronic, preventable disease, we must put down our forks and assess if we are engaging in best-practice dietary-initiatives for our bodies, the planet, and humanity at large.

seeing as the food system contributes roughly a third of the greenhouse gas emissions, and that 5 of the 10 leading causes of death in the u.s. are diet-related, there’s a real opportunity to better our health and protect the planet.

yet we often eschew this opportunity, allowing convenience and fleeting preference to trump ethical considerations surrounding the food choices we make. we blissfully fail to acknowledge the impacts of meat, drowning out uncomfortable thoughts with the sizzling sound of bacon frying on the stove. the time is now, however, to push for decreased consumption of meat.

a colossal task, meat reduction strategies historically have have been met with deep resistance. when a school in texas attempted to implement a meatless monday policy, offering just one meatless meal per week, backlash erupted, and the measure was seen as overly coercive. and when reduced meat consumption was proposed for the 2015 dietary guidelines, heavy meat-industry lobbying ensured the suggestion did not make the cut.

what opposers who denounce such initiatives as overly paternalistic fail to realize, however, is that their taste for a meat-heavy diet is a result of a preference that has been architected for them. the government uses tax dollars to feed our meaty appetites, spending billions on agricultural subsidies, a bulk of which support commercially raised meat, often incentivized by “big meat’s” hefty political contributions to persuade lawmakers.

and the meat industry’s power extends beyond its pocketbooks. marketing campaigns have established cultural norms that contribute to our meat-heavy mindset, telling us our bodies need “high quality” animal protein or we will become malnourished or anemic, and that eating only plants is unsatisfying and emasculating, all contributing to resistance to shift away from animal protein. after all, believing these notions is far easier than changing something so personal and emotionally charged as our diets.

but if we continue to consume meat at the present rate, we set ourselves on a trajectory for resource depletion, irreversible damage to the planet, and a multitude of preventable health risks. moreover, we jeopardize the right for future generations to food access and a healthful planet.

with momentum growing in the plant-based food movement, there has never been a better time to nudge for reduced meat consumption. incentivization of meatless monday practices, continued advocacy for reductionist messaging in dietary guidelines, and education about meat’s impacts, may prove monumental.

even if national policy is presently out of reach, we can begin by adjusting our own diets and work on changing the social norms around meat. and we don’t have to push the world into veganism overnight to make a difference. by eating a little less, applauding when meat-free options are offered out of the home, and celebrating plant-based meals, we can decrease meat demand and foster a cultural shift where plants become preferential. doing so can shrink our ecological footprint, improve our health, and ensure sustainable food choices for future generations. if there is a true desire to make a positive impact for health of humanity or the planet, it’s time to put the money where our mouths are, and back off the beef.

it’s dusk on a tuesday night at kalu yala, an eco-town in the panamanian jungle. at the sound of a double-blown conch, interns, staff, and visitors, sipping cocktails out of mugs and mason jars, abruptly abandon their conversations and form a cafeteria line for the evening meal: “plasagna.”

the dish, plantain lasagna, is a delicacy in the jungle town and educational institute. it consists of layers of thinly sliced plantains, tomato sauce, vegetables and cheese, or a cheese-less option for the numerous vegans here.

but this isn’t your average cafeteria line.

kalu yala, striving to be the world’s most sustainable modern town, embraces that title in the kitchen through its farm-to-table menu and culinary program.

local

since kalu yala is not yet a fully farm-to-table operation, the focus is on eating locally. esteban gast, the director of the kalu yala institute, said more than 80 percent of their food once came from less than five miles away, encompassing the kalu yala farm and the local community in san miguel. however, executive chef brigitte desvaux said this number has likely gone down to a more realistic 30 percent as the town’s population has grown. but looking forward, plans to grow the farm include developing substitutes for commonly used products and protein sources.

“the name of the game where we are now is import substitution,” gast said. “we are a business, and in terms of both the business program and us as a business that functions. so we buy peanut butter, can we buy peanut butter here? can we make sunscreen here? can we make coconut water here? those are the questions that we are obsessed with, because that is how we become sustainable, that’s how we start businesses, and that is how we become successful.”

peanut butter is a controversial topic, desvaux said. interns can often be spotted eating peanut butter from the jar, and it makes a great snack because it’s protein-rich and it doesn’t go bad. but it comes from across the world and doesn’t quite match their standards of sustainability, she said.

“what is the purpose that we’re bringing (things like peanut butter) in: for convenience, protein, for a quick snack, for ease on the kitchen crew? so looking at those things and thinking, ‘ok, before we eliminate it, let’s find a substitute to replace it with.’”

the kitchen’s head chef, pulum, has been developing “bean butter,” a peanut butter substitute made from white beans, that desvaux said has the same flavor and protein but is produced on-site in a much more sustainable manner. on the other hand, it doesn’t contain preservatives so it must be made much more frequently. they’re looking into natural ways to preserve it, such as by adding citrus juice or freezing it, she said.

alternative

kalu yala is a place where alternative diets thrive. sarah diamond, an intern in the culinary program, said most of the foods they learn to make are vegan and gluten free. some of the meals served in the kitchen contain eggs, cheese, and occasionally meat, but there are always vegan and gluten free options served alongside them.

“we’ve done so much with alternatives,” diamond said. “i think that showing people that like, vegan for example, is just as good and often times a lot better, that’s such a great way to make a difference. eating is, when you’re talking strictly about environmental impact, that’s a humongous thing for someone to change their diet.”

the meat and eggs mostly come from the chickens that roam around the town like pets. (one intern found that a certain chicken likes to leave eggs in her bed.) last semester, interns had the opportunity to participate in a chicken slaughtering to better understand where their meat was coming from.

“i knew that i wanted to do it because i think that even if you don’t eat meat, living in a society that is so meat-heavy,” diamond said, “i just think it’s an important thing to know what it’s like to actually kill something, if you live in a world that kills animals.”

this upcoming semester, all chicken meat and hopefully eggs will come from the kalu yala farm, desvaux said. the culinary staff purchases pork and beef from two farmers in san miguel, but interns and staff also are investigating alternative animal protein sources to introduce on the farm, such as iguanas, rabbits, and tilapia. the fish hopefully will be ready to harvest by august or september, desvaux said, and likely will serve as a weekly protein to replace pork or beef.

“there’s so much deforestation happening throughout panama because of cattle, so we’re really looking into alternative protein to set that example,” she said. “the three (main) proteins are not the only ones that are available. there are other animals that we can raise humanely and sustainably and introduce into our diets. it doesn’t mean that i necessarily want to eliminate (pork or beef) fully, more so that i want to make sure we’re consuming it in an environmentally friendly way.”

integrity

another big aspect of sustainable eating is reducing waste from food. leftovers from meals often are reincorporated later and lingering food scraps are composted. culinary director karri selby said she also emphasizes using 100 percent of each ingredient to minimize waste and maintaining its integrity to pay respect to the farmer by not cooking away all of its nutrients.

while the vision of a fully farm-to-table operation is founded on sustainability, interns and staff recognize that there may need to be some exceptions.

“there are other things like coffee, and we drink a lot of coffee, that we get from boquete, which is in panama, and it doesn’t make a lot of sense to grow coffee here,” a biology intern explained. “boquete is in a higher climate, it’s colder there. they can grow coffee better there, and by supporting them we are supporting a community in panama. if we tried to grow coffee here, it would be a lot of resources, a lot of our time, and not really supporting the areas around us as well. it’s a balance of doing things ourselves but also supporting the communities around us.”

even if not every ingredient comes from their farm, kalu yala’s kitchen will keep serving delicious and sustainable fuel for innovators – 300 of them this summer semester.

“i feel really lucky that i get to be the one that is in their life for such a short period of time but hopefully they walk away from this experience having a bigger appreciation and love for food and what it takes,” selby said. “yesterday that lasagna, i mean, that is a labor of love, and you have to make like eight of them because we’re feeding so many people, so when you see people that are really excited and happy, you know, just for the food, for some people that’s the highlight of their day.”

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culinary intern liv rushin’s almond feta cheese

ingredients:

• 1 ½ cups almond meal
• 3 cloves garlic
• 3 tbs olive oil
• ½ cup water
• ¼ cup lemon juice
• ½ tsp salt

directions:

1. chop garlic into thin slices.
2. juice two lemons (or any citrus fruit; at kalu yala they used sour oranges).
3. combine all ingredients in a food processor and mix on regular power until smooth.
4. taste, add any more ingredients as you wish.
5. optional: remove cheese from food processor and wrap in cheesecloth and place in a bowl.

refrigerate, or enjoy right away. makes a delicious, creamy spread on toast and also is great on pasta!