{"id":27098,"date":"2023-02-08t19:53:27","date_gmt":"2023-02-08t19:53:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/dev.planetforward.com\/2023\/02\/08\/climbing-rocks-and-revenue-in-the-not-so-flat-midwest\/"},"modified":"2023-02-24t15:50:33","modified_gmt":"2023-02-24t15:50:33","slug":"climbing-revenue-midwest","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"\/\/www.getitdoneaz.com\/story\/climbing-revenue-midwest\/","title":{"rendered":"climbing rocks and revenue in the not-so-flat midwest"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

this story was originally published in great lakes echo<\/a> on november 21st, 2022. <\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n


\n\n\n\n

rock climbing might be a new tool for conserving the public land that bolsters michigan\u2019s annual $20 billion tourism industry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

the sport is gaining traction as outdoor enthusiasts look to experience nature differently, especially after indoor climbing gyms closed during the pandemic.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
at oak park in grand ledge,
michigan, climbers put rugs at
the top of the ropes to prevent
erosion.\u00a0(cameryn cass)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

already, there are 7 million climbers in america, and the sport\u2019s popularity is growing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

for the first time, sport climbing appeared in the august 2021 tokyo olympics. the word \u201cclimbing\u201d peaked in popularity on google during that event.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cthe nature of the outdoors user continues to evolve over time,\u201d said brad garmon, the director of michigan\u2019s office of outdoor recreation industry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cwe shouldn\u2019t get stuck in certain ways, where certain activities are legitimized and others not. let\u2019s figure out what people want to be doing in the outdoors and how we can support it,\u201d garmon said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

rock climbing isn\u2019t widely recognized in michigan and the rest of the midwest because most people don\u2019t expect to find exceptional rock climbing here, garmon said. that\u2019s one thing that makes rock climbing so exciting: it can reshape how people perceive the state\u2019s outdoor recreation opportunities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

michigan\u2019s outdoor recreation industry is responsible for 110,000 jobs and $5 billion in wages and salaries annually, according to the agency.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cthe outdoors is part of michigan\u2019s heritage. it\u2019s part of our economy and our communities. we\u2019re an outdoorsy state,\u201d garmon said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

michigan’s first climber-owned “crag”: slugg’s bluff<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

just this year, slugg\u2019s bluff in the upper peninsula became the first climber-owned area in the state.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

the popular crag \u2013 lingo for a climbable rock face \u2013 is about 20 minutes southwest of marquette.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

people have been climbing there since the 1970s, said bill thompson, a board member of the upper peninsula climbing coalition, a nonprofit group protecting sustainable climbing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

the arbelius family, who had long owned the 10 acres that is slugg\u2019s bluff, recognized that climbers maintained the land and donated it to them, thompson said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

climbers as environmental stewards<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

climbers clean up the trash \u2013 anything from broken bottles to fridges \u2013 that local nonclimbers toss off the ledge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

craig kasmer, a park interpreter at michigan\u2019s department of natural resources and a former rock climber, said the heightened awareness that climbing demands lends itself to a deeper connection with nature. that means climbers can play a key role in conserving an area.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"a
climbers often practice the seven \u201cleave no trace\u201d principles, which encourage conservation. (cameryn cass)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

\u201cclimbers are aware of their surroundings. with, say, a cyclist, it\u2019s exercise. you need to go from point a to point b and you\u2019re passing by trees and you\u2019re not even looking at them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cthe slower the activity, the better. you have to be slow and meticulous when you\u2019re rock climbing. and so you have time to stop and look at things, to be involved with the nature around you.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

as climbers ascend a wall of rock or ice, their focus is on finding the route. they must be extremely present in the search for different holds, whether with their hands exploring the rock or an ice tool testing the ice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

the michigan ice fest<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

it\u2019s this awareness and connection to nature that has led organizers of the popular michigan ice fest to set a goal of net zero emissions over the next three years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

the event is held in munising and initially had 10 climbers in 1991.  now, it attracts over 1,000 people from around the world.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cour passion relies on consistently cold weather, and that\u2019s being threatened by climate change,\u201c said matt abbotts, a co-organizer of the ice fest. \u201cif winters are milder or shorter, that means less ice climbing.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

the festival takes place an hour east of slugg\u2019s bluff, and ice climbers of all levels have come for the past 30 years to climb on the banks of lake superior.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cclimbers might not be the biggest community, but it\u2019s a group of strong-willed, passionate individuals who are never afraid of doing the hard work,\u201d abbotts said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"a
ice climbing at pictured rocks national lakeshore during the ice fest. (mike wilkinson)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

rock climbing in michigan<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

the upper peninsula has the most climbing opportunities in michigan, with over 300 documented roped routes and a myriad of boulder problems \u2013  unroped climbing at lower heights. but the lower peninsula is home to some crags, too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

in grand ledge, about 10 miles outside of lansing, climbers try to protect one of the only crags in the lower peninsula. the part of the park that allows climbing \u2013 oak park \u2013 is city-owned, and officials aren\u2019t good about managing the area, said ben poulson, a grand ledge climber.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"an
a map detailing the nine major rock climbing opportunities that michigan\u2019s upper peninsula offers. (upper peninsula climbing coalition)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

there are competing demands for public dollars, so city management at the ledges has fallen onto the back burner, said bruce bright, a member of the grand ledge parks & recreation commission.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cin some respects, i would characterize the management of oak park as being one of benign neglect,\u201d bright said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

so, who maintains it? climbers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

rock climbers upkeeping crags<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u201cclimbers are the best stewards,\u201d poulson said. \u201cif you ban climbing, you\u2019re banning the best environmental stewards from that area.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cif you allow climbing, you\u2019re allowing people who very much care about that area to be there and to police it,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

bright said members of the climbing community put down wood chips and topsoil and even installed makeshift wooden rails to prevent erosion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

people who spend time outdoors feel a shared responsibility to protect it. that\u2019s why it\u2019s so important to get people outside, said chris winter, the executive director of the access fund, a land trust protecting and preserving crags across america and based in boulder, colorado.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cwhen you connect to the larger landscape, you start really caring about conservation and stewardship,\u201d winter said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

liability concerns with rock climbing<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

still, some landowners with crags on their property resist climbing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

a section in michigan\u2019s natural resources and environmental protection act protects landowners from liability for those injured on their land if they were there without paying and for recreational purposes. it mentions activities like hiking, hunting, fishing and camping but groups remaining outdoor activities as \u201cany other outdoor recreational use.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

the vague language fails to mention rock climbing, thus raising questions of liability.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

the climbing coalition\u2019s thompson said rock climbing is often perceived as dangerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

but it\u2019s one of the few activities that has never seen injury or death in presque isle, one of marquette\u2019s most visited parks. other allowed activities \u2013 scuba diving, kayaking, hiking, mountain biking \u2013 all had injuries and deaths at the park, thompson said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

even devil\u2019s lake state park in baraboo, wisconsin, which has what some climbers consider the best climbing in the midwest, isn\u2019t maintained for climbing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

it has over 1,600 climbing routes and 1,500 boulder problems detailed in numerous guidebooks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

despite that kind of exposure, officials neither permit nor punish climbing in the park.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

climbers maintain the crags there, too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

the local wisconsin climbers association partners with the access fund to ensure access to climbing spaces. they keep the crags free of graffiti and trash, in addition to implementing erosion control.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

in michigan, the grand ledge climbers coalition and the upper peninsula climbing coalition both partner with the access fund to conserve local climbing crags.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

the access fund\u2019s winter said, \u201cit\u2019s not only the specific places we like to spend time as climbers, but also the larger landscapes around those places. it\u2019s those larger landscapes that are so inspiring.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

like any outdoor activity, climbing can adversely impact an area. but instead of banning an activity, we ought to bolster management efforts to accommodate it, bright said. after all, resources have long been exploited in the name of economic development.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201csometimes i think people are overly critical of our visitors. if the rock is damaged by overuse, is that really such a crime compared to what\u2019s taken place over the last 100 years?\u201d bright said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

winter said that climbers have always played an integral role in protecting the lands that all people \u2013 climbers and non-climbers \u2013 love and enjoy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cas we look to the future, in the bigger picture of conservation, we have to be tackling these big environmental challenges of our time,\u201d winter said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cwe have to do that both to protect outdoor climbing but also to protect the environment more broadly.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n


\n\n\n\n

reporter cameryn cass has climbed at grand ledge in michigan, devil\u2019s lake state park in wisconsin and the red river gorge in kentucky.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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